i had the best risotto milanese in Milan, perhaps surprisingly enough. the worst was in a carluccio’s in chiswick and was the closest thing to vomit i’ve ever been served anywhere. this was excellent. a good stock, finely chopped guanciale (rather than bone marrow but nm), and cooked to exactly the texture i like – … Continue reading "risotto milanese"

Courgette sauce with basil and beaten egg yolk, from Marcella Hazan’s The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. An old favourite this. The flavour of the courgette is right at the front, as although it tastes creamy, it hasn’t got any cream in it. The trick is to ensure the flour and milk binding doesn’t split … Continue reading "new year, old favorite"

..but leftover stufatino and homemade tagliatelle with anchovy butter, plus the last of the barolo i cooked the stew with… it’s a hell of a combo